Eons ago, Minstrel Boy sent me a recipe for Cherry Spread. A few weeks ago, I felt ready to road test it. On the left: results. On the right, the Ball cookbook’s Lemon Cucumber Pickles. Kale and cabbage grow in the window box outside the kitchen window, where Topaz likes to nap in the mid-morning sun. Nearly every day, I’m jarring or freezing something, making notes or labeling jars. As existences go, it’s a bit monastic, but I love it.
Category Archives: compote something
As An Apple On Christmas Day
Get a load of this from Bed, Bath & Beyond:
Enjoy pitted cherries anytime with this easy to use cherry pitter. It pits up to four cherries at once, and is reversible to accommodate both small and large cherries. The spring loaded mechanism provides ease of use in one easy motion, and the pits fall into the attached chamber for mess-free pitting and easy disposal, keeping counters clean. Lid locks for compact storage. Measures 7″ L x 2 3/4″ W x 2 1/4″ H. Pitter disassembles and is dishwasher safe.
Perhaps you remember or perhaps you’ve blissfully blotted out the memory of last year’s cherry pitting ordeal. We sat in the backyard for what seemed like weeks, pitting cherries, tossing seeds and sending springs into the stratosphere that reappeared months later on the roof. The single-cherry cherry pitter itself broke in my hand and though the paring knife seemed the best alternative, my hands can’t really handle it. I despaired for my career as a concert pianist. Anyhoo, I shopped for a better device and found this wacky thing at Bed, Bath & Beyond, where it was not at all cheap and I gulped as I paid for two, using 20% off coupons because I am crazy, not stupid and have never taken a piano lesson. We pitted 14 pounds of cherries in less than half an hour and most of that was deciding whose yard we would bless with future cherry trees.
But I’m Not That Easily Led
Perhaps you remember my whining about a French recipe filled with numbers and measurements I didn’t understand. The hilarity continued when I couldn’t get the tomato jam to gel no matter what I did. Minstrel Boy offered suggestion after suggestion, but nothing worked until I dumped envelopes of unflavored gelatin into the tomato goo, turning the goo into sweet aspic. You would not believe how tasty that is melted over meat, but it isn’t tomato jam.
Anyoo, turns out in the last year I learned enough to not only read the French recipe, I learned how to read between the lines. Recipes are often missing steps. That’s not supposed to happen, but it does. In the case of the French recipe, the cook was skillful enough to make a good jam, but not a good enough writer to put down every step. In this case, the missing step involved the food mill. Nothing mysterious about it: using the food mill in the way it’s customarily used. In the meantime, the syrup caramelized and the jam thickened. Look at these pretty jars!The technique was so successful I tried it with tomatillos, reconstituted dried orange peel and ras el-Hanout.
To Be Told But I’ve Heard
That brings us to now. For the first time in my entire life, I do not feel much like using words. This is a baffling sensation for me. Words are my paint and paintbrush, my guitar and drum. I can barely summon the will to finish sentences half the time and if I had any skill at all with a camera this would be a photo blog. I don’t know what this all means. Perhaps it’s a stage of life or a stage in every artist’s life where the medium falls away and something else presents itself. At the moment, I want to communicate through the colors and textures of pickled beets and peach butter. The internet, while very useful, does not yet offer us the fragrances of cinnamon and sweet basil. I don’t know how to talk to you without rosemary-infused olive oil.
And there is never enough time to talk, is there? Especially when we don’t want to. There’s never enough time when berries are ripe and skin is warm with sweat and we move through this sweet quietude. In other news: near my sister’s house sits an enormous dairy farm. The homeowners’ association is most exercised about the aroma of cow poop on the breeze.
An Island In Our Boat Upon
I forgot what I was going to say. Let me start over:
This morning, my co-worker stepped off the bus and onto the curb. At the same moment, elastic let go and her pants fell to her ankles. The bus driver, seeing this, said, “Have a good day, ma’am.”
Our lives are short. I try not to wish away time I’ll never get back or remember when I last got my car inspected. This weekend: it’s blackberries or bust and no second chances. There is still time for golden beets.
I meant to say those things. And these, too:
Imagine the grandest salad. Statistically speaking, there will always be one more pistachio.
Do you remember when cicada song and cooling sweat at the nape of your neck signified a new day and your own endless possibility?
I Think It’s You Instead
My Voice Too Rough From Cigarettes
Haven’t figured out why yet, but I joined Twitter. This immediately gave me a headache and made me love Steve Martin more, since he doesn’t write in Twitter’s secret code language. Do not pretend that Twitter is not peepulated with cool-kid code. It certainly is and that is a bore. Strange upside: Mr. Bittman might introduce us to someone interesting.
Prior to pursuing his nutrition studies, Andy [Bellatti] completed a bachelor’s degree in journalism and gender & sexuality studies at New York University.
His passion for nutrition was partially sparked by the sheer confusion he used to experience when trying to determine what constituted healthy eating in a society where nutrition messages are often clouded by marketing, sales profits, and hype.
Hey! I’m confused all the time! He sounds promising. What’s he on about?
…I’m shining the spotlight inward, taking a look at pervasive, accepted, and often times unquestioned concepts, ideas, and issues within the field of nutrition that carry a significant risk of self-harm. They are dangerous because they don’t allow for growth, critical analysis, or substantive dialogue; instead, they minimize the nutrition field’s importance and have helped create the current free-for-all we are in, where the term “nutrition expert” is as loosely thrown around as “reality TV star”.
Ooooooh. Mr. Bellatti, you have my undivided attention. Tell me more.
1) “There is no such thing as junk food”/”there are no bad foods” 2) “Moderation!” 3) “Healthy Eater = Red Flag” 4) “You Have To Be Realistic” 5) The American Dietetic Association Isn’t A Health Organization
It is hard to imagine how Mr. Bellatti wrote that entire post without sticking an ADA monogrammed pen through the ribcage and enlarged heart of a junk food-defending dietitian. You should read the whole thing and the comments, too, for extra goobertastic entertainment. For the life of me, I can’t figure out what the point of getting a degree in food science is if you’re scared to even ever-so-gently TELL PEOPLE ABOUT GODDAMN FOOD SCIENCE. Fast food is not food. That’s not a secret you should prepare to take with you to the grave, nutritionists!
Sing out!
Some people argue that if we do not preach moderation, we are setting the stage for unreachable perfectionism and eating disorders, a position that I find grossly melodramatic. Recommending that people shy away from fast food whenever possible is not about perfection; it’s healthful advice.
Who are these professionals who say stopping at McDonald’s is a fine idea? Who are they? What exactly is wrong with them? I’d really like to know.
Looking Up, I Noticed I Was
Genuflect! Genuflect! Genuflect!
Out By This Poolroom Life
There are only so many minutes we can wring out of each day. The minutes I’d usually use tonight to pound out a post with both sticky paws might be packed with adventure and romance – or more likely with working at the food pantry and making yogurt at home. Either way: sticky. So you can bet I’ll be thinking of you, Poor Impulsives! How could I not? And speaking of me, I’ve been reading food preservation blogs. Did you know there are dozens of them? There are! And they are doing some really creative things like raising goats and pickling improbable pickles and farming fruits and praising raisins. And each of those blogs has a blogroll full of other preservation bloggers, many of whom are doing work just as interesting, by which I mean I want those bloggers to ship jars to my house for circumspect sampling. Is that too much to ask?
These bloggers are plainly not thinking of my needs. Hopefully soon, they will see the error of their ways. And speaking of me, I received a cookbook in the mail some months ago that sat on a table for weeks while I worked up the nerve to read it. Dad’s online foodie friends published their own cookbook with a section dedicated to Dad’s passionate pontificating. To my surprise, the writing sounds like him, the recipes make sense, the techniques he described were familiar enough that I could tell the editors had snipped a few words here and there but left his work largely undisturbed. His voice was clear and decisive, his opinions as firm as they’d ever been. One of our last conversations:
Tata: …I’ve been using bamboo cutting boards –
Dad: No!
Tata: (thinking of the three very expensive cutting boards aging gracefully on my kitchen counter) No?
Dad: (done talking about this or almost anything else)
Tata: Okay.
But he was like that. He read everything, formed an opinion and something drastic would have to develop or come his way to change his mind. I often wonder what he meant when he rejected the bamboo cutting boards. Yesterday, the Punk Domestics published When Is Content Original? I’ve been mulling over this, too:
Recipes – which is to say lists and quantities of ingredients – cannot be copyrighted, but “substantial literary expression in the form of an explanation or directions” and images are subject to copyright protection. When using some or all of another’s recipe, including an image, there are some broadly accepted etiquettes about the use, attribution and adaptation of recipes.
First and foremost, cite your sources. If you are using a recipe from another source, it’s polite to get permission first, and top of form to give credit and link back. If you are adapting it or deriving a new recipe with inspiration from it, permission is not necessary, but the citation and link back are certainly good form.
I do not own the rights to the cookbook or to Dad’s writing and I’m the last person who’d fuck with someone else’s rights. For one thing, no one needs the cognitive dissonance inherent in being haunted by an angry dead atheist. For another, I have had about half a dozen conversations with people genuinely upset about chicken stock and there’s no need for that, either. Dad had a simple solution to – well, look: some folks want to cook with stock, but it’s expensive or it takes time to make or they don’t know how, and they feel judged about it. Making your own stock is not a moral obligation, but it is a good use of your resources, gets your money’s worth out of your groceries and improves the flavor of your cooking. Why are people anxious? I don’t know, but do you know anybody who isn’t?
In the cookbook, Dad says all you need is a large slow cooker. Put everything you’d put in a stock pot into a large slow cooker, set that bad boy on low. After an hour or two, check that the surface of the liquid ripples but doesn’t boil. Let’s say you do that after dinner. In the morning, you might need to add water. When you get home from work, strain out the bones and toss the liquid back into the slow cooker. Taste it. You might want to add some wine and a few pinches of salt. Let the liquid heat gently for another hour or two. Twenty-four hours in a slow cooker should do it. Let it cool, then store it in your fridge.
There you have it, without my stealing even a single phrase. Of course, I was thinking of your needs all along. Don’t we all feel a little less sticky?





